After the Azores it was difficult to adjust to the busy-ness and heat of Lisbon. It seemed like in the week we were gone summer had turned it up a few notches. One evening wandering the streets around 6pm we passed one of those outside clocks that not only tell you the time but the temperature as well and it was still a balmy 37 degrees. Suffice to say the next day we spent cooling off at a busy sandy beach in the Cascais neighborhood. After the rocky pools of the azores we had forgotten that sandy beaches are not ideal on a windy day. Suffice to say we brought home a lot of sand in our gear that day.
We had a lovely air bnb place for the four nights which was bliss after a week of camping on hard rocky ground. Our place was on one of the many hills in lisbon. It was pretty tough going the first night with our big bags climbing all 158 stairs up to our street and then the remaining three flights of stairs in our apartment. Legs and booty have definitely been getting a work out in the streets of Lisbon. In saying that because of all the hills there are many Miradours providing great outlooks over the city and river.
We had a lovely air bnb place for the four nights which was bliss after a week of camping on hard rocky ground. Our place was on one of the many hills in lisbon. It was pretty tough going the first night with our big bags climbing all 158 stairs up to our street and then the remaining three flights of stairs in our apartment. Legs and booty have definitely been getting a work out in the streets of Lisbon. In saying that because of all the hills there are many Miradours providing great outlooks over the city and river.
In the street we stayed on all the neighborhood the road seemed to be an extension of the living rooms. Every afternoon until late into the evening the path would be full of kids playing, people talking, drinking, sitting, eating, hanging washing. This was also very similar when we wandered the narrow alleyways of the Alfalma district excepting there is an absence of traffic in that neighborhood. Alfalma is also the home of Portugese music Fado. On our first day back in Lisbon we visited the Fado Museum where we were first introduced to the strongly emotive and intense genre of music. Songs tend to be sad and nostalgic but there is always a sense of hopefulness too. The museum guided us through the roots of Fado and allowed us to listen to some of the well known Fado singers of Lisbon, singer who have reached international success and the more recent modern Fado singers. We explored fados history through Lisbon and across the world. Videos where singers explained the feelings and meaning behind certain songs helped us understand the true life and soul of Fado. Now that we had been given our 101 Fado introduction for dummies the next step was to find a small bar to here some live. |
We didn't get this opportunity till the last night and we almost skipped it as we had been so worn out from a day of hiking in Sintra. After a long rest and shower to wake us up we headed back to the Afalma neighborhood. We had been suggested a place by a free walking tour guide earlier on in the week. Tasha do Chico was a cozy low-lit tavern. The walls were covered in photos of the owner with famous Fado singers and football clubs scarfs hung from the ceiling. We arrived around 11pm. Perfect timing as we nabbed one of the last tables right in front of the musicians to sit back and sip on a terribly sweet Sangria. A singer is accompanied by a guitarist and a Portugese guitarist which is a 12 string instrument. If for nothing else I recommend going along just to listen to the guitarists. It is beautiful music without the singers. The two guys here were especially talented. Over the course of a couple of hours we listened to a variety of singers who once done would collect a drink from the bar whilst the guitarists kept on playing for whoever wanted to hop into the singing spotlight. I believe you have to be in the mood forFado. It's not going to get you pumped up for a night out and definitely isn't everyone's cup of tea. Some of the amateurs we listened to were not the best but one guy in particular had us closing our eyes and really feeling his pain through the music. Even though we could understand practically nothing it didn't matter as the way the guy sung meant the mournful message still got though and I could feel shivers up my spine despite the relatively warm room.
Initially we had wanted to head out to Barri Alto for a few drinks to continue the night in one of the 300 odd bars or so found in the neighborhood. (The highest ratio per square meter in Europe apparently). After losing ourselves in the Fado our mood was less energetic so we called it a night. It was a great way to end what was one of our favorite days in Lisbon.
We were also pretty worn out after our long day spent in Sintra where we certainly gave our legs a workout. A short train ride out of Lisbon and you feel like you are in a completely different region with its picturesque town and pine covered hills. The cool mountain breeze was also welcomed after spending the past few days sweating in the streets. We walked up and around the Parque de Pena and got a great panoramic of the area as well as the ruins of the Moors castle siting on a lower hilltop beneath the Pena Palace.
We were also pretty worn out after our long day spent in Sintra where we certainly gave our legs a workout. A short train ride out of Lisbon and you feel like you are in a completely different region with its picturesque town and pine covered hills. The cool mountain breeze was also welcomed after spending the past few days sweating in the streets. We walked up and around the Parque de Pena and got a great panoramic of the area as well as the ruins of the Moors castle siting on a lower hilltop beneath the Pena Palace.
It was nice to be amongst nature again and leave the craziness of Lisbon. We got lost a few times climbing up rocks to get better view points of the Palace and fortress. The Palace itself is quite Disney world like withe older part and the more extravagant new half different colors. Pena Palace actually means Feather palace which is quite fitting.
I can't say I will miss the thick wafts of salted bacalhau (cod fish) floating from every other corner. The strong ginjinha or cherry liquer also left little to be desired. But the creamy custard pastels, the fresh bread including the pao de deus (a type of coconut bread) and the beautiful varied and cheap seafood on offer leave us wanting more of portugal. However it's time to skip to the other side of the continent to an area less know for seafood and more for its meat.
I can't say I will miss the thick wafts of salted bacalhau (cod fish) floating from every other corner. The strong ginjinha or cherry liquer also left little to be desired. But the creamy custard pastels, the fresh bread including the pao de deus (a type of coconut bread) and the beautiful varied and cheap seafood on offer leave us wanting more of portugal. However it's time to skip to the other side of the continent to an area less know for seafood and more for its meat.
Taking of from Lisbon you can see the sprawling city climbing the hills interspersed into the distance with lots of wind turbines. Although Portugal is struggling still economically in terms of sustainability they are doing so bad. They are one of the top countries in terms of producing energy through renewable sources something some of the wealthier european countries could learn from.
We are heading to Zagreb purely because it was the cheapest flight from Lisbon to Eastern Europe where we are meeting some friends in Belgrade. We have a couple days to chill out in a few more capitals Zagreb and Ljubljana and a day of relaxing and swimming at Lake Bled before we hit the road with our mates. Road trip time.
We are heading to Zagreb purely because it was the cheapest flight from Lisbon to Eastern Europe where we are meeting some friends in Belgrade. We have a couple days to chill out in a few more capitals Zagreb and Ljubljana and a day of relaxing and swimming at Lake Bled before we hit the road with our mates. Road trip time.