After a few glasses of the local wine the night before I woke up feeling a little worse for wear but we had made plans with Zoe so were up with the birds again the next morning. Although we all came to Pico wanting to climb the Volcano which dominates the sky line (when there's no cloud out) the weather forecast for the day was for rain. Zoe had tried to climb the day before but just driving around the mountain was hard work with thick fog and heavy rain. Such a contrast from the sun showers and humidity we had felt on the coastline. As none of us were keen to sit around in our tents all day Zoe had booked us in with a guide to take us repelling down some waterfalls and cliff sides. |
Contrast to the forecast it was a brilliant morning and from the campground we had a clear view of Pico. Zoe was planning on leaving that night to another island and so was feeling torn about her choice. In the end after talking to Jose our guide she ditched out and decided to climb Pico. Saying our goodbyes Jake and I hopped in with Jose.
It was nice seeing a bit more of the island from a car. Jose drove us across the island and soon we were in thick fog. Jose had warned Zoe that just because it was clear on one side didn't mean it would be on the other. He was thinking out loud about Zoe and her choice to climb alone in the weather. He also explained it takes three hours to climb up and you can get beautiful views but on a day like today if you can not see far in front of you it can take sometime and you wouldn't see anything from the top. I hoped it cleared up for Zoe and that she would did some walking buddies.
It was nice seeing a bit more of the island from a car. Jose drove us across the island and soon we were in thick fog. Jose had warned Zoe that just because it was clear on one side didn't mean it would be on the other. He was thinking out loud about Zoe and her choice to climb alone in the weather. He also explained it takes three hours to climb up and you can get beautiful views but on a day like today if you can not see far in front of you it can take sometime and you wouldn't see anything from the top. I hoped it cleared up for Zoe and that she would did some walking buddies.
In the meantime Jose kept driving through the fog when all of a sudden from the middle of the mist a few stray cows came wandering. Back home it is normal to come up against a large heard of cows of sheep on the road as farmers move them into different fields. But in NZ they would be accompanied by a couple of dogs herding them or a farmer on a bike.
The cows that appeared here looked lost and weren't worried at all that a car was heading their way. Jose wasn't worried and said it was common for cows to be on the road and you just needed to be aware that they could be there. As he said this in front of us a huge bull appeared through the haze. He was slowly heading right for us not caring that he was walking in the middle of the main cross island road. This time Jose slowed down to a crawl and almost stopped allowing the bull to pass by us rather than the other way around. I wouldn't have wanted to make that animal angry and was glad I wasn't driving.
The cows that appeared here looked lost and weren't worried at all that a car was heading their way. Jose wasn't worried and said it was common for cows to be on the road and you just needed to be aware that they could be there. As he said this in front of us a huge bull appeared through the haze. He was slowly heading right for us not caring that he was walking in the middle of the main cross island road. This time Jose slowed down to a crawl and almost stopped allowing the bull to pass by us rather than the other way around. I wouldn't have wanted to make that animal angry and was glad I wasn't driving.
Over the other side of the island the town which was first settled in Pico, Lajes, was a lot gloomier. The grey clouds hung low not letting any of the sun light in. We passed a few tourists offices with whale watching advertised. Jose told us this is the side of the island to see them so we scanned the oceans horizon for them. Shortly we arrived at our first stop where we would get some practice in repelling before heading to a bigger cliff to climb down. With all our gear on and Jose's climbing bag full of ropes we scrambled down some slippery rocks into a mostly dried creek.
It would have been more exciting to do the descents after a good rainfall when the creek was running with water. For now it was just damp enough for the thick layer of green moss covering all the rocks to be causing jake and I to slip all over the show as we scampered down the creek to our first dried-up waterfall. Our trail runners are not exactly the best shoes for this sort of exercise.
It would have been more exciting to do the descents after a good rainfall when the creek was running with water. For now it was just damp enough for the thick layer of green moss covering all the rocks to be causing jake and I to slip all over the show as we scampered down the creek to our first dried-up waterfall. Our trail runners are not exactly the best shoes for this sort of exercise.
Jake was kitted up first and he didn't even have time to have a look over the edge before he was making his first rappel down. Was not so high only about 8-10 meters but just enough of a thrill to get you hooked and ready for the next one. Jose gave us a bit of instruction to help with our technique and enforce we knew it he was packing the rope back up into his bag so we could walk or slip down to the next small wall.
After another 15 minutes or so of scrambling over boulders and sliding down on our bums where it got a bit tricky we reached a smaller edge. Jose have us the option to rappel down or climb around the edge. Although only a small wall we were amped to try abseiling down again. It really was quite a small wall only around 6-8 meters but was good to build up the confidence and practice a few jumps rather then just easing ourselves down.
After another 15 minutes or so of scrambling over boulders and sliding down on our bums where it got a bit tricky we reached a smaller edge. Jose have us the option to rappel down or climb around the edge. Although only a small wall we were amped to try abseiling down again. It really was quite a small wall only around 6-8 meters but was good to build up the confidence and practice a few jumps rather then just easing ourselves down.
This time the walk to the next spot was a bit longer and included following the creek down a small pitch black tunnel. It took awhile for our eyes to adjust to the darkness but we still had to feel our way through following the lights at the end. Our shoes finally got wet as we stepped in the wrong place every now and then hitting puddles of water rather then rock.
The last dried up waterfall where we could hook up and abseil down was 15 meters high. The previous two descents we hadn't really had time for the height to get to is. For some reason it took awhile for Jose to hook up the ropes to the trees and jake had a nervous look eye as we waited. He's not particularly fond of heights and even walking over one of the tall bridges across the Douro river in Porto he was a bit shaky. Given his lack of love for heights I'm always surprised and impressed when he says yes to any activity which means facing his fear.
This was the tester really as if we didn't look confident Jose wouldn't be taking us to the next spot where the only way once you get there is down. We passed the test with flying colours. Once hooked back up Jake slowly walked down the wall for the first few meters before quickly gaining his confidence. He was down the bottom in no time as I looked on from the rock edge. My tummy flipped once as Jose hooked me in but I loved the feeling of sailing down the mossy rockslide.
We hiked down the rest of the creek side back to where Jose had left the car. After all the excitement Jake and I found it hard to stay awake as we drove half an hour back through the fog to the other side of the island. I had shot gun so kept rubbing my eyes and opening the window to keep me awake so I could make conversation with Jose. In the back seat Jake gave up fighting sleep and nodded off. When we hopped out of the car he finally acknowledged how hard it is to stay awake as a passenger. I am terrible front seat company as I always fall asleep when Jakes driving which is most of the time.
There was less of a hike to the waterfall this time. Again as there had been no rain on the island in the last week it was dried up. Jose also mentioned that he hadn't repelled down when it was wet yet so we were lucky it wasn't raining otherwise he wouldn't feel comfortable taking us.
From the small clearing Jose had to first set up a safety rope so we could clamber down to the edge of the cliff. From up there we got a brilliant view of Sao Jorge one of the neighboring islands. Below us we could see a small village and people playing in the water not noticing the crazy people about to climb down a wall attached only to a rope.
We hiked down the rest of the creek side back to where Jose had left the car. After all the excitement Jake and I found it hard to stay awake as we drove half an hour back through the fog to the other side of the island. I had shot gun so kept rubbing my eyes and opening the window to keep me awake so I could make conversation with Jose. In the back seat Jake gave up fighting sleep and nodded off. When we hopped out of the car he finally acknowledged how hard it is to stay awake as a passenger. I am terrible front seat company as I always fall asleep when Jakes driving which is most of the time.
There was less of a hike to the waterfall this time. Again as there had been no rain on the island in the last week it was dried up. Jose also mentioned that he hadn't repelled down when it was wet yet so we were lucky it wasn't raining otherwise he wouldn't feel comfortable taking us.
From the small clearing Jose had to first set up a safety rope so we could clamber down to the edge of the cliff. From up there we got a brilliant view of Sao Jorge one of the neighboring islands. Below us we could see a small village and people playing in the water not noticing the crazy people about to climb down a wall attached only to a rope.
We were to do the descent in three stages. The first was 30 meters followed by a 20 meter abseil and then the final 30 meters. Psyched we geared up. I would be lying if I said that I didn't get a rush from the height up here but once your facing the wall you forget how high up you are. It's not till I was at the midpoint looking up at where we first hooked on that I realized again how high we were.
Jose warned us that we would be faced with a few trees on the second stage which would make it a bit more difficult. More like a forest. The first meter or two was an easy abseil. Then I encountered my first tree which I narrowly avoided having poking me in the rear. A few more meters down and I was tangled thick in bush. Kicking my legs around I freed myself from the scratchy twigs. Once Jose who also managed to get stuck in the trees he told us that they actually used to be a lot worse when we first explored this spot.
At the final stage you could clearly make out the people swimming and fishing on the each which was still a lot lower down but which we would be walking. This gave the impression that we would be doing a higher abseil then only 30 meters. It was by far our best rappel. Jake and I both soared down the cliff side and before we knew it it was over.
Jose warned us that we would be faced with a few trees on the second stage which would make it a bit more difficult. More like a forest. The first meter or two was an easy abseil. Then I encountered my first tree which I narrowly avoided having poking me in the rear. A few more meters down and I was tangled thick in bush. Kicking my legs around I freed myself from the scratchy twigs. Once Jose who also managed to get stuck in the trees he told us that they actually used to be a lot worse when we first explored this spot.
At the final stage you could clearly make out the people swimming and fishing on the each which was still a lot lower down but which we would be walking. This gave the impression that we would be doing a higher abseil then only 30 meters. It was by far our best rappel. Jake and I both soared down the cliff side and before we knew it it was over.
On an adrenaline high we turned and looked back up to where we had started our descent. 80 meters up the cliffside you could just make out the little clearing where we had started from.
The only real thing we were wishing for by the end of the day was some gloves as our soft hands couldn't cope with the burn from the rope. Jake came away with at least one popped blister. I came away relatively unscathed minus a few scratches down my legs from being attacked by the trees on the second to last repel.
As we hadn't been to the main town Madelena yet we caught a ride with Jose back there to check it out. After a well deserved ice cream on the waterfront we lazed around spending the remainder of the after noon reading our books at a small cove near the harbor. From there we got a great view of Faial another of the 9 Azores islands. A guy was kitted up diving in the waters around the rock. No sooner had he hopped in did he surface again with not one but two small octopus. Out of all the seafood octopus is one I actually don't mind eating but these suckers were Ugly with a capital u. Some of the women squirmed away as he passes them whilst the kids were rushing up to touch the slimy tentacles. Stopping for a quick photo the man popped his dinner into a bag and continued on with his search for more seafood.
Madelena was a lot busier then Sao Roque and I was glad we didn't camp in Madelana. It looked like it had good facilities but no trees and our tent would have been a sauna out in the Azorean sun all day long. Pico has even less of a bus service them Sao Miquel being smaller with less people. On a Sunday there is no bus service at all and not keen on a twenty euro cab ride we opted for hitching.
With no map and little road signs we headed the way we thought Sao Roque was, only to find out a km down the road we were going the opposite way we wanted. Backtracking we soon found what looked like a main road with some familiar shops on it. We walked past one other backpacking couple who were parked up with their bags in the shade hoping to get a ride from closer in town. About ten minutes later we came across a petrol station and decided to try our luck from outside.
Madelena was a lot busier then Sao Roque and I was glad we didn't camp in Madelana. It looked like it had good facilities but no trees and our tent would have been a sauna out in the Azorean sun all day long. Pico has even less of a bus service them Sao Miquel being smaller with less people. On a Sunday there is no bus service at all and not keen on a twenty euro cab ride we opted for hitching.
With no map and little road signs we headed the way we thought Sao Roque was, only to find out a km down the road we were going the opposite way we wanted. Backtracking we soon found what looked like a main road with some familiar shops on it. We walked past one other backpacking couple who were parked up with their bags in the shade hoping to get a ride from closer in town. About ten minutes later we came across a petrol station and decided to try our luck from outside.
It was six o clock but still stinking hot. After about 15 minutes of people apologizing shaking and pointing their hands in other directions Jake was getting hot and bothered. Luck was on our side though and a couple with their young son pulled up after filling up and asked where we were going. Same direction so we squeezed in next to the car seat and the kid started jabbering away in Portugese about his new toy dinosaurs whilst I responded in English.
We were back at the campground in time for another swim and a few bombs from the rocks into the lagoon. Jake kicked of a fire and grilled us a tasty barbecue. At about nine o clock we noticed the backpacking couple we had past hitch hiking in Madalena . We definitely lucked out on our ride then.
We enjoyed one last night on the coast drinking one of the local wines Terra Magma before the heavens opened up and we sprinted back to the tent to see if it really was waterproof. Luckily we woke the next morning dry but a bit sore after the past week of camping on flimsy mats. I was looking forward to a good bed. Unfortunately one tent managed to be swimming as water got in underneath. Talking to the lady and her nephew at breakfast they seemed tired and had a restless night. I was glad it wasn't me but the boy who was camping for the first time was pretty excited about it all. He was only 8 but spoke fluent English Portugese and German switching between the three with ease as he chatted away at breakfast. It always amazes me meeting people that can speak several languages and makes me conscious of my limited ability. I do try in most countries we visit to learn a little bit of the language and always say hello thank you etc in the local language. Often though the locals speak English and identifying us a foreigners speak to us in English. In cases where there is more of a language barrier our main mode of communication becomes a lot of hand gestures and facials as we try to explain ourselves.
Over the next few months I am going to try harder to immerse myself more in the places we visit and learn a bit more in each language so in situations where there is this barrier I can try and string a few more words together.
We were back at the campground in time for another swim and a few bombs from the rocks into the lagoon. Jake kicked of a fire and grilled us a tasty barbecue. At about nine o clock we noticed the backpacking couple we had past hitch hiking in Madalena . We definitely lucked out on our ride then.
We enjoyed one last night on the coast drinking one of the local wines Terra Magma before the heavens opened up and we sprinted back to the tent to see if it really was waterproof. Luckily we woke the next morning dry but a bit sore after the past week of camping on flimsy mats. I was looking forward to a good bed. Unfortunately one tent managed to be swimming as water got in underneath. Talking to the lady and her nephew at breakfast they seemed tired and had a restless night. I was glad it wasn't me but the boy who was camping for the first time was pretty excited about it all. He was only 8 but spoke fluent English Portugese and German switching between the three with ease as he chatted away at breakfast. It always amazes me meeting people that can speak several languages and makes me conscious of my limited ability. I do try in most countries we visit to learn a little bit of the language and always say hello thank you etc in the local language. Often though the locals speak English and identifying us a foreigners speak to us in English. In cases where there is more of a language barrier our main mode of communication becomes a lot of hand gestures and facials as we try to explain ourselves.
Over the next few months I am going to try harder to immerse myself more in the places we visit and learn a bit more in each language so in situations where there is this barrier I can try and string a few more words together.