After a day resting our tight calves and ageing knees at the beach we packed up our bags once again and hopped on a bus bound for Rabo de Peixe. We had a quick look on google maps to see how far a walk the camp ground we were to stay at was from this town and it didn't look like it was that bad, maybe two kms up a hill. As we said goodbye to our hosts who were heading to Santa Maria they asked where we had decided to camp. When we said the town it was near they gave us a strange look and continues to tell us that it had a reputation as the worst village on the island and potentially all of Portugal. On that apprehensive note they wished us well and good luck. |
I had some new doubts now with the light fading into the evening but continued on with our plan. When the bus diverged from its expected route to a few villages in the opposite direction of the signs showing the town Rabo de Peixe we weren't overly concerned. The bus dropped a few locals off and back tracked into Rabo de Peixe. We hesitantly pushed the button to hop off. Many men were hanging in the doorways of home which I guess gives the town a bit of an edgy feeling but we walked on. Now Google maps and the map of the island we had only shows about 4 streets in Rabo de Peixe.
We soon realised there are a lot more and they aren't all signposted. As we had no idea which road to turn up we pulled up into a mini market to stock up on some food supplies and ask for directions. Luckily the young woman spoke some english. When we said where we were going she was shocked and describes it as being quite far. After some discussion with an elderly couple also hanging out in the store she informed us that her Papa didn't speak any English but he would give us a lift up to the campground. Just our luck as the sky's opened up and the rain began to fall. We were very grateful for the ride as getting out of the town to where we first seen a sign pointing in the direction of the campground was up several small back alley streets. Our second unintentional hitched ride in the islands.
At the campsite we were greeted with warm welcomes by Renato the owner. The check in first involved him pulling out a small New Zealand flag and explaining his little visitor system. Whenever he received a guest he notes down where they are from and has a flag made up. We then attached it to his flag pole where the other nationalities in the site were also flying- Portugese, German, Belgium, Polish and English. We were only the second kiwi visitors he has had with the first Kiwi guy back in 2011. We were introduced to Mordor his big fluffy guard dog who then escorted us around as we were given a tour of the property. Renato has an amazing set up with a large volcanic rock wall bordering his property and then perfectly trimmed hedges separating out the different areas where one could camp between his different fruit trees. We chose one of the citrus orchards and pitched up. Renato has a small soccer pitch set up in one area, a secure car park and good facilities. At the back of his property a small tower has been built with curtains billowing in the wind and a circular staircase leading to a spectacular view. We spent a good few hours soaking up the sun and enjoying the views from this tower. |
Due to the lack of buses and the rural nature of where we were staying a vehicle is really a necessity to get out and see the island. Renato called a friend and had a scooter delivered to us the next morning so we could see more of the stunning landscape. We woke to a beautiful morning and once the paper work for the scooter was sorted we were off. All of the neighbouring roads were lined with the same volcanic rock walls until we came to a road that was actually located on the map we had. With no real plan for the day but enjoying the freedom of being able to go wherever we felt we took the scenic route along the coastal villages. Eventually we stopped in Gorreanna where one of the two remaining tea plantations is. |
When the orange plantations on the island were infected with a virus the island invited two Chinese tea masters to come and teach the islanders how to cultivate tea. There were around 40 plantations in its hey day but due to cheaper competitive African plantations coming into the market, many Azorean plantations were closed. Gorreanna was able to stay open as they generated much of its energy from a stream which ran through the property keeping operational costs down. It remains the oldest tea plantation in Europe still producing.
We were able to wander the plantation before touring the factory. It was s strange feeling being able to just wander around amongst the workers as they poured sacks of tea into the machines to be sorted. The various teas produced were available to try free of charge including an iced tea. Not having had a tea in awhile jake made sure to stay in for a while and try several cups.
We were able to wander the plantation before touring the factory. It was s strange feeling being able to just wander around amongst the workers as they poured sacks of tea into the machines to be sorted. The various teas produced were available to try free of charge including an iced tea. Not having had a tea in awhile jake made sure to stay in for a while and try several cups.
The clouds were coming in by this point so pulling on our jackets we decided it was time to try out one of the hot pools. We wound our way up beautiful hydrangea lined roads into another volcanic crater lush with vegetation. Getting lost again we pulled up at one of the many tree lines rest stops and who do you know pulls up behind us but Renato the campsite owner.mSensing we were a bit lost he gave us directions to some must sees in the Furnas area and a recommendation for lunch.
We visited the bubbling caldeiras or hot springs on the edge of lake Furnas. Similar in smell and appearance to those in Rotorua (minus the bubbling mud), restaurants in Funas have dug wells where they place pots of layered meats and vegetables and cook underground using the natural heat source. Similar to a hangi but much easier. After 6-7 hours the food is ready to be served. We tried Renato's recommended restaurant and on arrival seen huge plates of food being served to other customers. We decided to only get one of the Cozido Caldeiras and share a smaller plate of food. Even then we still had to ask for a doggy bag to take home the leftovers. The plate came with beef, pork, chicken, sausage and a variety of vegetables with a side of rice. As it is steamed in pots it is not as smoky or earthy tasting as a hangi is back home. The flavours of the food come across more strongly and we were delightfully full. |
In order to not fall into a food coma in the hot springs we wandered around the town trying to figure out a way to get into the Terra Nostre park. Only finding locked entrances and sick if walking around the perimeter of the huge park we jumped a fence only to find we were actually in someone's large but lovely back garden.
Slipping back into the road we found an entrance through a hotel and paid the small fee to wander the gardens and take a dip in their hot springs. Unfortunately it was the wrong time of year for the main flower garden however it was a pleasant walk through some various other gardens. We ended our afternoon soaking in the hot springs amongst a beautiful forest backdrop.
Sao Miguel has many lakes nestled in volcanic craters and we tried to visit Lago De Fago or the Fire lake another day. The clouds and mist surrounding the mountains meant we couldn't see anything from the view pout and were hesitant to walk down the steep hillside when we could only see a few metres in front of each other. Instead we opted for a smaller walk lower down the valley visiting a waterfall carved into a large rock side. A group of people were canyoning inside the crevasses of the rock carved out by the water. It looked like fun but after watching for a bit it seemed short lived as there was only about two places to abseil and climb down from.
We are hoping to some sort of adventure activity on the island but after watching this we may end up just diving on one of the other islands.