Being a backpacker free things are always good for the budget meaning we can spend money on a much needed beer or ice cream at the end of each day. While we were in Rome it just happened to be the end of the moth and on the last Sunday of every month the Vatican Museums are open free of charge. All the online reviews warn you not to come on the free day as there are massive queues to get in and the halls are crowded once inside.
However we had also read that the Museum has a long line pretty much every day so we thought we would risk it and save some money. Up early Sunday we caught the bus and subway to Vatican City and followed the throngs of other people. It had been a bit drizzly when we left so we had brought our umbrella and jackets with us. Once of the subway it started hosing down and people started popping out of every alleyway and road trying to sell brollies and ponchos. They were making a killing selling them to all the unprepared tourists but they were also wasting their time on the likes of us trying to persuade Jake to buy another umbrella or poncho.
However we had also read that the Museum has a long line pretty much every day so we thought we would risk it and save some money. Up early Sunday we caught the bus and subway to Vatican City and followed the throngs of other people. It had been a bit drizzly when we left so we had brought our umbrella and jackets with us. Once of the subway it started hosing down and people started popping out of every alleyway and road trying to sell brollies and ponchos. They were making a killing selling them to all the unprepared tourists but they were also wasting their time on the likes of us trying to persuade Jake to buy another umbrella or poncho.
I had thought it would take us ages to get to the Vatican even though it’s still right in the centre of Rome. We rocked up to the back of the line a little after 8am and the queue already hugged one of the large walls separating Vatican City from Rome. The museum didn't actually open until nine so we had a bit of time to kill waiting in line. The bad weather didn't seem to be much of a deterrent for anyone as people continued to join the queue. The line soon snaked around the walls disappearing behind a corner. Although we hadn't been too keen on getting here that early and waiting an hour in line I was glad we got there when we did as I didn't fancy waiting any longer then was necessary.
Jakes ritual in the morning when we have wifi is to download the stuff mobile website on his phone so we passed the time sharing "the paper" and reading all the top stories in NZ. Before we knew it nine ‘o clock rolled around and the line slowly start to move as the museum opened its doors. We made our way inside a little before half past nine and were pleasantly surprised that there didn't seem to be nearly as many people as we imagined. We spent the next two hours admiring the different areas of artwork. It is said that if you spent 1 minutes on every piece of work in the Vatican museum you would need four years. The museum is laid out so that you walk through all the exhibitions starting in the Gregorian and Egyptian museum and finishing of in the large philatelic and numismatic exhibition (coin and stamps collections). It is a pretty big place but it is separated into different sections so you can quickly walk through the exhibitions or museums that don’t take your fancy. We appreciate the history and enjoy admiring art but a few hours a day is our maximum in any one place.
One of my favourite areas was the Gallery of the Geographical Maps with its large canvas paintings of Italy, Europe and the world as pictured from different points in time. Jake had fun attempting to take his normal sneaky photos of Michaelangelos ceiling in the Sistine Chapel, where photography is banned, without much success. It was a pity that the Ethnological and Ceramic museums were not open while we were there but we still got to peak in. Originally the Ethnological museum showcased 40,000 works handpicked by a select committee from 100,000 pieces the popes have been donated from people all over the world. From what we could see there were some interesting cultural objects still on display.
Enjoying a coffee and pastry at the little cafe onsite we called it a day at the museum but we weren't quite finished with the Vatican just yet. Vatican City's an interesting place geographically being a state city completely landlocked by Rome. It is pretty small at only 44 hectares with a population of less than 1000 people but with 3000 workers that live outside the fortified walls. |
Wandering around the walls we had earlier spent hours staring at Jake and I seemed to be following a large crowd of people, more then what we had encountered inside the Vatican museum. We passed a few of the Pontifical Swiss guards in their colourful traditional attire and made our way to Saint Peters Square. We were met with thousands of people packed into the square (which is more of an eclipse shape then a square) all staring up at a window in the Apostolic Palace. Unbeknown to us on Sundays the Pope gives a short speech and prayer and blessing to the crowd. A piece of royal red fabric dangled from the window indicating where the Pope would be seen from. Apparently the Palace is normally the Popes residence except the current Pope has decided to buck tradition and stays at the guest’s residence elsewhere in Vatican City.
A group of dancers entertained us while we waited in the sticky heat hoping to get a glimpse of the popular Pope Francis. There was wide mix of people from Boy Scout groups to a large cluster of young priests dressed in their black and white cassocks, lots of families and a few big signs poking up. A large cheer went up from the crowd as a tiny figure emerged at the window. Although Jake and I are not catholic or religious at all it was interesting to be amongst the crowd. The Pope had everyone's attention as he prayed and blessed everyone. We didn't understand anything (although from Argentina he speaks several languages and he gave his speech in Italian) but did hear him give a few shout outs to some of the groups that were there that had travelled from all over the world to see him which was a nice gesture.
Because it was midday already there was also a really long line to get inside Saint Peters Basilica famously designed by Michelangelo. Having spent enough of our day waiting we gave it a miss. Instead we admired the architecture around the square including the grand Basilica and the 4000 year old Egyptian obelisk in the middle of Saint Peters square. The magnitude of the square is impressive but I would have loved to have also seen it lit up at night or when every square inch
wasn't full of people. The square and church is the focal point for most people coming into Vatican City so it was pretty busy especially with it being Sunday.
wasn't full of people. The square and church is the focal point for most people coming into Vatican City so it was pretty busy especially with it being Sunday.
If you look down there is a painted white line that divides the Vatican from Rome along the edge of the square, the entrance here being the only part of the Vatican not guarded by the walls. We said goodbye to the Vatican popping over the divide back into Italian territory to catch our bus back to camp. The last few days has been some of the best in Italy as Rome has so much to see and do. We really enjoyed learning more about the history, culture, food and art during our stay but it was time to say ciao to Italy for now as we were jetting across the Mediterranean to Spain for sangria, paella, flamenco and lots of tomatoes.
Next stop: The worlds biggest tomato fight in Spain