Armed with names of several different companies recommended to us from some friends we had met on our way and a few which I had read good things about on trip advisor we were on a mission the first day in Rurrenabaque. We needed to book our tours, get to the bank before it closed at midday to get some cash out and book our flights back to La Paz, then that afternoon we could finally crash out after out long and intense bus ride.
The first few places were the ones that had amazing reviews on trip advisor but after hearing the first price per person per day which was about the same amount as our budget for the whole jungle trip we decided to go with one of the places some others had told us about. Fluvial tours did us a pretty cheap deal for both the 2 day jungle and 3 day pampas tour which meant we could actually go out and eat that night. In La Paz the tour operators try and sell three different priced tours. One for budget travel, one for those with loads of money who want hot showers etc and then there is the mid priced tour which they try sell as being eco-friendly. In reality all these tours especially any tours to the pampas go to the exact same places. We had also heard stories that on the more expensive so called eco-friendly tours, guides are still picking up the animals and then letting the tourists handle them for photo opportunities. We figured we would go with the cheaper option and spend the money on a flight back to La Paz instead. If there were any activities we are against we just wouldn't participate.
The first few places were the ones that had amazing reviews on trip advisor but after hearing the first price per person per day which was about the same amount as our budget for the whole jungle trip we decided to go with one of the places some others had told us about. Fluvial tours did us a pretty cheap deal for both the 2 day jungle and 3 day pampas tour which meant we could actually go out and eat that night. In La Paz the tour operators try and sell three different priced tours. One for budget travel, one for those with loads of money who want hot showers etc and then there is the mid priced tour which they try sell as being eco-friendly. In reality all these tours especially any tours to the pampas go to the exact same places. We had also heard stories that on the more expensive so called eco-friendly tours, guides are still picking up the animals and then letting the tourists handle them for photo opportunities. We figured we would go with the cheaper option and spend the money on a flight back to La Paz instead. If there were any activities we are against we just wouldn't participate.
Cheaper did not mean worse. We actually got the best guide, loads of food and there was only one other couple from America with us on our tour. Taz, our guide, spoke pretty good English but we reckon he was trying to test us at the beginning as he would only talk to us in Spanish pretty much the whole boat ride before switching to English at the camp site. The river was a murky brown colour because of all the rain and it was strong! The ride up the Rio Beni took us three hours and on the way back it only took an hour and a half because of the currents. There were actually a few points where we were going over a few rapids and waves in our little long tail. Apart from the few bumpy currents the ride there was peaceful and we only passed a few other boats with locals fishing and kids playing.
We arrived into our small camp a short walk away from the river just in time for a massive lunch of steak, veges and rice. The camp was shared with one other group of eight, young British guys on a three day jungle tour but we pretty much only seen them at meal times. After lunch it was time to explore with our guide who by this stage we could understand a lot better as he was speaking English, phew. Taz was great to have as a guide as not only did he grow up in a nearby village so knew the jungle like the back of his hand but he was also quite well travelled himself and knew a lot about other countries as well as Bolivia. Ready and armed with our camera, insect repellent and jackets (being the rainforest and all it rains a lot) we began to walk through some really dense forest.
Taz and Jake seen a deer and skinny brown snake within the first ten minutes but after that we didn’t really see many animals. We could hear plenty of birds and there were a few different sets of animal foot prints but didn’t see anything again till somehow over all of us crunching our way through the bush Taz heard Tucans. Off we followed him and sure enough high up in the tree tops were two Tucans. They didn’t stick around long enough for a photo opportunity and next time I think we need to climb a tree or something to get closer but they were still pretty awesome to see. As the animals didn’t seem to want to come out to play with us Taz focused on the insects and plants. Pretty much everything in the jungle has some sort of defensive mechanism that can seriously harm or kill humans. A female lion ants bite paralyses animals then the male ants have super strong teeth which are used to rip apart the prey. An army of lion ants can completely dismember an animal or human in two hours. Never being much of an ant person I stepped over those guys pretty quickly. But like everything in the jungle they also provide locals with a useful purpose. The teeth are so strong that they are used as natural stiches for cuts. After three hours of looking for animals and listening to all the dangers and uses of different plants and animals in the jungle and despite our cocoa hits, which are supposed to be an appetizer suppressant, our tummies were starting to rumble so back to camp we trudged.
After another beautiful meal we headed out for a night walk. This is when a lot more of the wildlife is supposed to come out to play such as spiders, snakes, sloths, pumas, jaguars and the howler monkeys. I was really not keen on seeing the first two especially as there is one really dangerous snake which if you shine a torch onmwill charge at you. I also had low expectations of seeing a jaguar or a puma. Taz had already told us that to see them you need to go deep into the jungle on a 15-20 day trek as they are endangered so are not as many around.
Taz led the way with his powerful spotlight and knife sharpened and tucked away. I was half hoping we would have a massive wild pig or snake come charging at us to see what he could do with that thing. Fortunately the only time he used it the whole trip was to cut branches down to make arrows out of. I slotted myself in the middle just behind Taz trusting that if anything too dangerous was coming our way he would wave his knife around skilfully and I would be safe. It was a much slower paced walk then during the day, stopping every 5 or 10 minutes to search the surrounding trees for animals and insects.
Taz led the way with his powerful spotlight and knife sharpened and tucked away. I was half hoping we would have a massive wild pig or snake come charging at us to see what he could do with that thing. Fortunately the only time he used it the whole trip was to cut branches down to make arrows out of. I slotted myself in the middle just behind Taz trusting that if anything too dangerous was coming our way he would wave his knife around skilfully and I would be safe. It was a much slower paced walk then during the day, stopping every 5 or 10 minutes to search the surrounding trees for animals and insects.
Partway in we could hear the gentle pitter-patter of rain drops but we were sheltered by the canopy. It was so serene walking through the rainforest with the rain above us that I actually started to relax and enjoy myself. Jake was having a great time taking pictures of the bush at night. Again we were pretty unlucky on the wildlife front and with the rain getting heavier Taz told us it was unlikely anything would be coming out. At camp we actually found a massive Tarantula and a cute wee frog gave me the fright of my life as I went to the bathroom so it wasn’t all a complete fail.
The next day we woke up to more rain but after a beautiful breakfast of fresh fruit and doughnuts the sun came out to play which was perfect as we were heading out fishing. Now I suck at fishing but I do love to go out and give it a try. Jake isn’t much better but we were hopeful. After twenty minutes of feeding the piranhas and sardines in a smaller tributary of the
river we were all out of meat and had no bait to catch the big fish with. Taz had been up earlier fishing however and caught some piranhas to use as bait. Apparently cat fish don’t really like piranhas though so Taz wasn’t too sure how lucky we would be. Winding up the hook and nylon like a windmill Taz could cast the lines out pretty far and we settled on the banks of the river reading, chatting and killing sand flies. Our competition between the couples of who would end up with the bigger fish ended as a draw with neither of us catching anything. Reeling our lines back in the piranhas were still on them so either no fish or the fish have a very particular diet. After our last meal back at camp it was time to sit back and enjoy the views from the river as we travelled back to Rurrenabaque.
river we were all out of meat and had no bait to catch the big fish with. Taz had been up earlier fishing however and caught some piranhas to use as bait. Apparently cat fish don’t really like piranhas though so Taz wasn’t too sure how lucky we would be. Winding up the hook and nylon like a windmill Taz could cast the lines out pretty far and we settled on the banks of the river reading, chatting and killing sand flies. Our competition between the couples of who would end up with the bigger fish ended as a draw with neither of us catching anything. Reeling our lines back in the piranhas were still on them so either no fish or the fish have a very particular diet. After our last meal back at camp it was time to sit back and enjoy the views from the river as we travelled back to Rurrenabaque.
Next stop: Alligators, monkeys, pink dolphins and piranhas